To ride such a wave is very brave,
Its power is immense, you must be tense
And prepared to die, however, your elation must be really high.
The wave blocks out the sky, you shake your head, ask yourself why?
Up and down your board you run, the water overhead weighs tonnes.
Will this be it? Is my exciting life over, will my body be found in bits...
Such an endeavor is not for me. I have too much respect for and fear of the sea!